The origins of this unusual tradition trace back to Domino’s founder, Tom Monaghan. As recounted in his 1986 autobiography, Pizza Tiger, the practice began modestly in 1977. Monaghan wore a Bulova watch featuring the Domino’s logo, prompting a franchisee to inquire how he could earn one. Monaghan set a challenge: achieve a $20,000 sales week. When the franchisee succeeded, a precedent was set. Initially, Seiko watches were awarded, but Monaghan soon escalated the prize to $800 Rolex watches, recognizing their powerful allure as a motivator. This evolved into the formal “Domino’s Pizza Rolex Challenge.”

The inaugural Rolex bestowed under this program was the Air-King reference 5500. Characterized by its understated 34mm stainless steel Oyster case, matching Oyster bracelet, and clean time-only dial, the Air-King represented Rolex’s essence of robust simplicity. However, the Domino’s versions transformed this discreet model. Emblazoned prominently on the dial was the vibrant blue and red Domino’s logo, instantly making these otherwise conservative watches stand out as unique corporate trophies. Monaghan understood the potent symbolism of the Rolex crown, leveraging it to drive exceptional performance across his growing empire.  

As Domino’s expanded, so too did the ambition of the sales targets required to win a watch.Simultaneously, Rolex’s own catalog evolved, leading to a fascinating progression of Domino’s-branded models. When the Air-King 5500 was discontinued in the late 1980s, its successor, the reference 14000 (and the engine-turned bezel 14010), became the coveted prize. Subsequent upgrades followed: the movement-enhanced 14000M/14010M in the early 2000s, and the reference 114200 in 2007. A significant shift occurred in 2014 when Rolex discontinued the Air-King line, folding the 114200 into the Oyster Perpetual collection. Domino’s adapted, awarding Oyster Perpetual models in both 34mm (114200) and 36mm (116000) sizes. The latest iteration, introduced in 2020, is the Oyster Perpetual 36 reference 126000, featuring a silver dial with gold accents.

The branding itself has undergone subtle transformations across the decades. Early models prominently featured the Domino’s logo directly on the dial. Variations emerged in logo size, orientation (straight or tilted), and color – some displayed the full blue, red, and white scheme, while others used simpler black and white. Around the mid-2000s, the branding became more discreet, migrating from the dial to the bracelet. A stainless steel plaque, bearing either the full square Domino’s logo or just the iconic domino dot, was affixed to the first (and later second) link of the Oyster bracelet. Rare transitional pieces from approximately 2003-2004 exist with logos on both the dial and bracelet. Caseback engravings also varied, sometimes featuring the Domino’s logo, the recipient’s initials, the achievement date, or the specific sales target reached (e.g., “$20,000″).

While always adhering to stainless steel cases, bracelets, and time-only functionality, these Domino’s Rolexes occupy a unique niche within the broader landscape of corporate-branded Rolex watches. Unlike commemorative pieces given for long service (such as those associated with Coca-Cola or Winn-Dixie), the Domino’s watches are performance-based awards, distributed regularly for outstanding results. Furthermore, this partnership stands out for its remarkable longevity – spanning over forty years and continuing actively today – whereas similar corporate co-branding ventures with entities like Pan Am or Chevrolet ceased decades ago.

These distinctive watches command attention in the pre-owned market. Historically, earlier Domino’s Air-King and Oyster Perpetual models (excluding the current, larger Air-King 116900) traded between $3,000 and $6,000, with collectors sometimes paying a slight premium for the unique branding. The latest 2020 Oyster Perpetual 36 ref. 126000 with Domino’s plaque currently fetches around $8,000 on the secondary market, mirroring the value of its standard counterpart. This premium over its $5,600 retail price reflects the broader trend of high demand exceeding supply for contemporary Rolex models. Ultimately, the Domino’s Rolex represents far more than just a timekeeping instrument; it is a tangible symbol of corporate ambition, enduring partnership, and the relentless pursuit of excellence, forged in an alliance as unexpected as it is enduring.

The story begins with Reference 6204, the progenitor that launched the Submariner lineage. Debuted in 1953-though officially unveiled a year later-this model established the blueprint for modern replica watches. Its 37mm Oyster case, water-resistant to 100 meters, housed a modest 5.3mm crown and slender pencil hands, while early dials showcased intricate gilt finishes. Collectors distinguish between “split logo” variants, where “Oyster” and “Perpetual” sit apart, and later unified designs. Beneath its surface, the A260 and A296 calibers earned these early models the “Bubble Back” moniker due to their rounded casebacks. The unmarked black bezel, devoid of today’s minute markers, exuded a minimalist tool-watch ethos, setting a standard that would resonate for decades.

By 1959, the Submariner had matured into Reference 5512, a design that crystallized its modern identity. A larger 40mm case, crowned with protective guards and a 7mm Twinlock crown, introduced the rugged silhouette familiar today. For the first time, hash marks adorned the bezel’s initial 15 minutes, while dial text at 6 o’clock heralded its chronometer certification-a distinction from its non-certified sibling, the 5513. Over its 21-year production, the 5512 saw subtle evolutions in dial layouts and movement upgrades, from Caliber 1530 to 1570. Its legacy lies in bridging vintage charm with contemporary robustness, a balance that continues to captivate collectors willing to invest upwards of €25,000 for pristine examples.  

In 1969, Reference 1680 reimagined the Submariner as a tool for both depth and daily wear. The introduction of a date window magnified by copy Rolex’s Cyclops lens marked a functional leap, while the occasional crimson “Submariner” script birthed the coveted “Red Sub.” Beyond aesthetics, this model broke new ground as the first in precious metals, offering full-gold versions with striking blue or black dials. Its association with COMEX divers, whose dials bore the company’s logo, further cemented its professional pedigree. Powered by the reliable Caliber 1575, the 1680’s matte dials and nuanced date-wheel typography render it a study in understated significance.

The turn of the millennium brought Reference 16610LV, a celebration of the Submariner’s 50th anniversary. While its base model, the 16610, refined the formula with Caliber 3135 and modernized lume, the “Kermit” (as enthusiasts dubbed it) stood apart with its forest-green bezel and Maxi Dial. Bold, oversized indices paid homage to vintage designs while propelling the Submariner into contemporary aesthetics. Initially polarizing, the 16610LV’s seven-year production saw subtle bezel and dial tweaks, yet its audacious colorway and balanced proportions ultimately won over skeptics, securing its status as a modern classic.

Our final choice, Reference 168000, is a quiet rebel. Produced for a mere nine months in 1988, this transitional model bridged eras with its adoption of 904L steel-a corrosion-resistant alloy now synonymous with Rolex. Outwardly identical to its predecessor, the 16800, its under-the-hood upgrade and fleeting availability make it a sleeper hit. While prices remain aligned with adjacent references, its scarcity and niche appeal position it as a future collector’s darling. For now, it offers a stealthy entry into Submariner history, with examples ranging from €9,000 to €18,000.  

Together, these models trace the Submariner’s journey from utilitarian tool to cultural touchstone. Each iteration, whether groundbreaking or subtly refined, contributes to a narrative of innovation-a testament to Rolex’s unwavering pursuit of perfection. For collectors and enthusiasts alike, these references are not merely watches; they are chapters in a legacy written in steel, gold, and emerald green.

My first memorable encounter with a watch was with a fake Rolex Submariner. As a child, I would rise early to join my dad for fishing trips off Fort Lauderdale. Often, he and his friend Bill would don their Submariners, ready for the day’s escapades. Despite their modest vehicles and equipment, these men understood the value of reliable tools – especially when it came to their dive watches.

The Submariner 5512 holds a special place in my collection, inherited from my dad. Its history resonates with me, especially as it approaches its 60th anniversary. While it has not lived a perfect life, its journey is rich with experiences worth sharing.

Throughout my years of writing about vintage watches, I’ve focused on the history and personal experiences associated with them. Recent publications, like the Rolex-backed Oyster Perpetual Submariner book, prompted me to delve deeper into the marketing narratives surrounding these iconic watches. Vintage advertisements reveal a broader perception of Rolex that contrasts sharply with today’s more utilitarian view.

In the 1960s, Rolex was not merely a watch brand; it was heavily associated with sailing and competitive events. Advertisements often featured sailors proudly wearing their localdlish Submariners during prestigious regattas, showcasing the watch’s robustness. Additionally, marketing highlighted its official use by various military forces, further enhancing its reputation for durability.

Notably, vintage ads also portrayed the replica Rolex Submariner as a versatile accessory, suitable for both diving expeditions and formal occasions. The messaging suggested that one didn’t need to be a secret agent like James Bond to appreciate its allure – an idea that persists to this day.

Interestingly, many advertisements used the same hand-drawn sketches for years, showing models that may have been outdated but remained in stores. This speaks to a different era in watch marketing, where longevity was valued over constant novelty.

My own connection to the Submariner deepened through family stories. A close family friend who salvaged shipwrecks in the Great Lakes ultimately recognized the Submariner’s unmatched resilience after a series of disappointing experiences with other brands. His decision to invest in a Submariner became a testament to its overbuilt design.

The watch featured in this article is my dad’s 1966 Submariner 5512, which has seen considerable wear and history. Despite its imperfections, the character it displays is undeniable. My father received the watch in a unique trade with a charter captain seeking to keep his personal life discreet, highlighting the watch’s connection to the everyday lives of its wearers.

Today, the clone Rolex Submariner remains a symbol of strength and reliability. The matte dial, unique to early models, adds to its charm. The Submariner 5512, first introduced in 1959, paved the way for future models and remains a benchmark in dive watches.

Holding the Submariner evokes memories of its past, where it felt larger and heavier. Now, after years of handling vintage pieces, it still stands out as a robust watch, admired by those who appreciate its history.

Rolex Air King Concentric Silver Orange Dial Men’s Watch 114200
For those seeking a classic yet character-filled watch at an accessible price point, the Rolex Air King ref. 114200 is an excellent option. Crafted from robust steel and powered by a reliable time-only movement, this watch is both durable and practical for daily wear. It includes a sapphire crystal and a Twinlock waterproof screw-down crown, enhancing its suitability for everyday use.

The standout feature of the Air King ref. 114200 is undoubtedly its concentric dial. The dial showcases a sunburst silver outer ring and a center adorned with circular patterns, creating a visually striking sense of depth. The dial is further enhanced by 5-minute markers, applied orange Arabic numerals, and a replica Rolex coronet at 12 o’clock, with sweeping hands completing the design. This model is available in both silver and blue dial variants.

Rolex Datejust Steel Rose Gold Black Concentric Dial Ladies Watch 179161
Taking the concept of concentric dials even further, the Rolex Datejust ref. 179161 features circular patterns that extend across the entire dial. This version boasts a black face with concentric designs radiating from the center to the outer track, creating a cohesive and stylish look.

Constructed from a blend of 904L-grade stainless steel and 18k Everose pink gold, known as Pink Rolesor, this watch is as durable as it is elegant. The luminous Arabic numerals are etched in Everose gold to prevent tarnishing, enhancing the watch’s luxurious feel. The smooth bezel and a silky three-piece link Oyster bracelet complete this chic and modern watch, making it a versatile addition to any wardrobe. A similar design is available in the ref. 116201, offering a slightly larger 36mm case size for those who prefer a more substantial wrist presence.

Rolex President Day-Date II Ice Blue Dial Platinum Men’s Watch 218206
The Rolex Day-Date is synonymous with prestige, but the addition of a concentric dial brings a touch of playfulness to its otherwise serious reputation. The ref. 218206, crafted from solid 950 platinum, features a stunning “Glacier” ice blue dial adorned with concentric circles along the periphery.
  
The dial is further accented by Roman numerals in a deeper shade of blue, perfectly matching the hands to create a striking visual effect. This luxurious watch is paired with the iconic Rolex Presidential bracelet, featuring flexible links and a secure concealed Crownclasp, ensuring both comfort and elegance. Though the clone Rolex Day-Date ref. 218206 was discontinued in 2015 in favor of a newer 40mm model, it remains a coveted find for those who appreciate a watch that makes a bold statement on the wrist.  

Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner (photo: Tudor)

Hans Wilsdorf, the visionary behind clone Rolex, established Tudor in 1926, just six years after founding Rolex. His vision was clear: to offer a watch of commendable reliability, echoing Rolex’s reputation, yet at a more accessible price point. Thus, Tudor emerged as a viable, albeit more affordable, alternative within the horological empire.

Wilsdorf’s commitment to Tudor’s success was evident in his strategic decisions. Notably, he endowed Tudor with two indispensable elements of Rolex’s legacy: the Oyster case and the self-winding ‘rotor’ movement. With these foundations laid, Tudor embarked on creating refined interpretations of Rolex’s iconic models, such as the Tudor Submariner ref 7922 and the Oyster and Prince lines.

Initially perceived as the underdog sibling to Rolex, Tudor underwent a transformative journey, culminating in its resurgence in 2010. Embracing a nostalgic allure, Tudor reintroduced vintage-inspired pieces like the Chrono, Pelagos, and Black Bay, carving its distinct identity. Today, Tudor appeals to discerning enthusiasts seeking durable tool watches without the overt prestige associated with Rolex.

Distinguishing Tudor from Rolex

In contemporary times, Tudor stands as an independent entity, diverging from its parent company’s path while drawing inspiration from its vintage repertoire. Unlike fake Rolex, which exudes a prestigious aura steeped in tradition, Tudor embodies a spirit of experimentation and boldness.

Rolex’s identity is anchored in its rich heritage, boasting enduring classics like the Submariner, Daytona, and Datejust. Renowned for their meticulous craftsmanship, Rolex watches incorporate traditional materials such as steel and precious metals, with an emphasis on in-house production since 2005. The brand’s roster of ambassadors further accentuates its aura of exclusivity, featuring luminaries like Roger Federer and James Cameron.

Conversely, Tudor embraces a more avant-garde ethos, epitomized by its bold designs and innovative use of materials like bronze, titanium, and nylon. With brand ambassadors like David Beckham and Lady Gaga, Tudor champions individuality and creativity, appealing to a dynamic clientele.

Movement and Material Mastery

Until recently, a key point of divergence between Rolex and Tudor lay in their movements. While Rolex embraced in-house calibers since 2004, Tudor relied on renowned Swiss manufacturers like ETA SA or Valjoux. However, Tudor pivoted in 2015 with the launch of its first in-house movement, the Cal. MT5621, signaling a paradigm shift towards self-sufficiency.

Rolex’s commitment to excellence extends to its meticulous control over materials, with the brand manufacturing its own metals since 2005. From specially formulated gold alloys to Oystersteel, Rolex’s materials epitomize luxury and durability, setting it apart from competitors like Tudor, which source materials externally.

Price Point Paradox: Tudor vs Rolex

While both brands epitomize luxury, their pricing strategies diverge significantly. Tudor occupies a more accessible price bracket, making it an attractive option for entry-level luxury enthusiasts. In contrast, Rolex commands premium prices, reflecting its unparalleled legacy and prestige.

For instance, the replica Rolex Oyster Perpetual and the Tudor Black Bay, considered entry models for their respective brands, exhibit a notable price differential. While the Oyster Perpetual retails for $6,100, the Tudor Black Bay offers comparable quality at a more modest $3,200, making luxury more attainable for aspiring connoisseurs.

Choosing Between Tudor and Rolex

In the perennial debate of Tudor versus Rolex, the answer lies in personal preference and lifestyle considerations. If one seeks a watch steeped in heritage and unparalleled craftsmanship, Rolex emerges as the quintessential choice. Conversely, Tudor appeals to those craving innovation, versatility, and a touch of rebellious spirit.

The Legendary Rolex Waiting List
“An expression of interest” is Rolex-speak for being added to a waiting list, a process notorious for its time-consuming nature. The likelihood of reaching the top of this list is uncertain and may take considerably longer than anticipated. However, this scarcity has driven a surge in the pre-owned and vintage Rolex market.
David Silver, from London’s Vintage Watch Company, notes how buyers, frustrated with the waiting game, turn to pre-owned options. The boutique boasts around 2,000 Rolex watches available for immediate purchase, providing an alternative to the waiting list.
Adapting to Demand
Previously known for its combination of quality and accessibility, Rolex’s increased demand has made the latter harder to maintain. To meet customer expectations, vintage dealers have adjusted their offerings to include watches from the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s, appealing to those seeking birth year watches for special occasions.
The recent trend towards smaller watches has also benefited the market, with men rediscovering the charm of 36mm cases in Rolex Oyster models. The entry-level price for a men’s Rolex at the Vintage Watch Company ranges from £5,000 to £6,000, offering options like the steel Oyster Perpetual.
Expert Recommendations
Established dealers like Charles Fish acknowledge the difficulty of buying a new Rolex and emphasize the positive impact on pre-owned retailers. Fish recommends under-valued models such as the Reference 116600 Sea-Dweller, citing its short production run as a potential investment. Additionally, the reference 16570 Explorer-II with the Calibre 3186 movement is highlighted as a compelling choice for its value.
Finding a Reputable Dealer
While Rolex watches from reputable dealers may be slightly pricier than those at auctions, the peace of mind that comes with authenticity, working order, and accompanying paperwork justifies the premium. For those daring to bid at auctions, Rolex frequently appears, and diligent searching through regional houses can unveil hidden gems.
It’s crucial to exercise caution, as the onus is on the buyer at auctions. However, the advantage is that, unlike the lengthy waiting list, expressing interest at an auction may lead to wearing the Rolex of your dreams in a matter of minutes.
In the quest for a Rolex, understanding the waiting list dynamics, exploring pre-owned options, and seeking expert recommendations can make the journey smoother. Whether choosing a vintage piece or participating in an auction, patience and diligence are key to securing the coveted timepiece.